Recounting....

"Life is not what one lived, but what one remembers and how one remembers it in order to recount it."
Gabriel Garcia Marquez

09 August 2007

Flying High With Femi

September 18, 2006

So, let me tell ya’ll about our first concert in Africa…..

Start off with dinner at the Lagos Sheraton hotel, where for a mere 57,000 N
(or about $500 USD) a night you can see the largest rats in town and have
the security guards teach you swear words in Yoruba. Then get in your party
bus (compliments of your boss) and join the armed convoy to the show. It is
in a huge warehouse type place that has no closed sides. Cost of admission:
1000 N or $7 USD. There you will be led to the camarote (or VIP) area, that
is, if you can find it through the cloud of sweet smelling smoke. You will
be surprised that that is Femi Kuti, one of Nigeria’s most famous singers
and yet the place is almost empty. In a city of at least 10 million people,
you will still run into someone you know, and that person is one of the
teaching assistants at your school (?) and also part of the band (???).

Finally, the show starts and here is the thing, there are only men dancing!
How strange is that? Someone tells you that it is because the only women
who dance are the prostitutes. For a while you believe this theory and stay
seated. But then you realize that no one can see you through all the smoke
anyway so you start dancing and a blast! Femi Kuti is a little bit reggae,
a little bit Gilberto Gil, a little ska, a little hip hop and a whole lot of
fun. The energy is amazing and his back up dancers can really shake their
thang. Still only men dancing, and none of them seem very interested in
dancing with you. The dance floor gets pretty crowded, mostly with locals.
You are amazed that no one tries to pick your pocket, because that always
happened at concerts in Brasil. You do have to watch out below however,
because there are three or four men with no legs scooting around on those
square scooters things you used to play with in grade school gym class.

A few people are drinking Star beer, but mostly everyone is guzzling bottled
water because a) they are stoned and b) they are dripping with sweat from
dancing. Still no women, but the men don’t seem to care at all. They are
having a great time regardless. After a few hours you too are dripping with
sweat and it is time to go home. The group gathers together and walks out.
There are big men with assault riffles around you and you think, “Holly
shit, we are about to be kidnapped!” But then you remember that they are
here to escort you! Make it safely on to the bus and try to ignore the
ringing in your ears while the driver drives about 1000 kilometers per hour
home. You get home with just enough time to shower and close your eyes for
about 10 minutes before you have to get up and skip off to work. Ah, just
another exciting night in Nigeria….
beijos,
c


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